By most metrics, the summer of 2010 hasn’t been an especially pleasant one. We’ve been beset by rampant joblessness, failing wars, environmental destruction, political gridlock, record heat waves, record rain, bad pop music and an atrocious Milwaukee Brewers pitching staff, but all is not lost, readers. I’m happy to report that no year has had better summer beers. In the midst of these trying times that make you want to reach out for a cold one, American microbrewers answered the call by rolling out new lines of thirst-quenching beers. To this reviewer, the Sierra Nevada Summerfest, New Belgium Skinny Dip and New Glarus Moon Man have all stood out in 2010 for their refreshing spins on pilsners, blonde ales and American pale ales, respectively, and to this list of summer all-stars we can now add Capital Brewery’s recently revived (and enigmatically named) Fest. It turns out that Fest is actually a Marzen, more commonly known as an Oktoberfest, which makes its June release all the more surprising. I usually associate Mazens with turning leaves and football games, but dang if this summer seasonal doesn’t hit the spot.

Fest pours a clear copper color, a little lighter than most Marzens, with a bubbly white head that has poor retention. The aroma is especially sweet and malty for a summer beer, with a rich profile of freshly baked crackers, brown sugar and nutmeg. Truthfully I can’t think of any autumn Oktoberfests that have a more robust aroma, but it’s been several months since I tried another. The taste reminds me of toast topped with butter and brown sugar, which could probably be overbearing in the hands of a lesser brewer, but Kirby Nelson finishes this one off with aplomb. The hop splashes come perfect at the finish, giving Fest that “dry leaf” taste that I find mysteriously appealing, especially in warmer months. The mouthfeel is luxuriously rich, like uncongealed pudding, yet the hops have a supremely drinkable finish that makes Fest an excellent choice for barbequing or just hanging outside. According to the Capital Web site, Fest is a multi-award winning beer that was put into “hibernation” in 2007 but returned this year as a seasonal offering. That’s great news, because in this summer of discontent, we’ll take all the joy we can get.